Summary
Mowalola's SS27 collection 'The Hunger' returns to her core codes — autonomy, sensuality, and self-liberation — through second-skin silhouettes, skin-tonal palettes, and materials like snakeskin, suede, and glitter-coated canvas.Womenswear channels desire as power, while menswear leans into surrender, with the show closing on a gown made from shattered plastic plates in collaboration with Tô Genesis.Three new patent leather Air Jordan 14 mule colorways (black, dark red, dark blue) debuted on the runway, continuing the Jordan Brand x Mowalola partnership.
For Mowalola’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection ‘The Hunger’, lingerie reads as office-wear and tailoring stays hyper-minimalist. This season, during London Fashion Week, designer and creative director Mowalola Ogunlesi showed us that she's laser-focused on the codes that first defined her brand’s inception: autonomy, sensuality, and a radical liberation of self.
The female body is central to the collection, carrying an almost otherworldly power through second-skin chiffon and linear leather, and by using a skin tonal palette, the line between the body and garment is obscured. Texture and materiality are just as central to the collection as is form: low-rise organza pencil skirts with snakeskin waistbands, and suede underwear alongside glossy leather. Through the interplay between texture and materiality, delicacy is amplified by its proximity to strength, a true reflection of the multifaceted female experience.
‘The Hunger’ also featured glitter-coated canvas bras and eelskin dresses, closing with a gown created from tiles of smashed plastic plates in collaboration with Australian upcycled accessories and jewelry brand, Tô Genesis, speaking directly to Mowalola’s sentiment of destruction and desire in material form.
The collection explores desire from both sides: in womenswear, desire becomes power; in menswear, it becomes surrender – both pulled into the same world of seduction. The menswear is rooted in silhouette but is corrupted through surface, shine and skin, with flashes of matte snakeskin peeking from underneath the collars and cuffs of shiny, waxed cotton shirts, softening masculine glamour into something more vulnerable.
Throughout ‘The Hunger’, the Air Jordan 14 quietly serves as a recurring thread within Mowalola's world. Alongside a burgundy suede Air Jordan 14 Retro SP and a silver Air Jordan 14 Mule, Mowalola debuted three new patent leather Air Jordan 14 mule colorways on the runway last week: a black, a dark red, and a dark blue pair.
Instinctive and intentional, ‘The Hunger’ is Mowalola in its purest form — a reminder to find power in sensuality. Reduced, refined, and reconsidered with exacting finesse, the collection, like Mowalola herself, is powered by an insatiable hunger for self-discovery and expression.
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