Balenciaga Shows Piccioli's Couture Debut & Chanel Acquires France's Oldest Shirtmaker in This Week's Top Fashion News
Summary
- Paris saw striking runway shifts with Piccioli’s stripped-back Balenciaga debut, Roseberry’s avant-garde Schiaparelli materials, and Blazy’s fairytale-inspired Chanel collection.
- Chanel acquired the historic shirtmaker Charvet, signaling potential expansion into menswear.
- Nike Atelier tapped PSG's Désiré Doué for a special-edition sneaker.
Balenciaga But Bigger: Pierpaolo Piccioli's Fall 2026 Couture Debut
Pierpaolo Piccioli stepped into the spotlight with his inaugural Haute Couture collection for Balenciaga, trading the theatrical spectacles of his predecessor for a refined, outdoor presentation. Set against the serene backdrop of the Cité Internationale Universitaire de Paris, the runway focused squarely on masterful garment construction. Piccioli employed a restrained philosophy to achieve dramatic, voluminous forms with singular gestures. Highlights included a full-feather trench that cleverly concealed teal trousers and a monolithic violet gown that billowed dynamically in the breeze. Even with outlandish touches—like Gigi Hadid’s massive black feather mane—the collection prioritized fabric movement, proving that a stripped-back approach still delivered massive visual impact.
Chanel Now Owns France's Oldest Shirtmaker: Charvet
Days before its Fall 2026 couture presentation, Chanel announced its acquisition of Charvet, the 188-year-old legendary Parisian shirtmaker. The two historic brands previously joined forces when Chanel’s creative director, Matthieu Blazy, tapped Charvet for bespoke shirting in his debut SS26 collection. The strategic move arrived alongside Chanel's growing roster of male ambassadors—including A$AP Rocky and Jacob Elordi—and a reported uptick in male clientele. While Charvet also noted a growing female customer base, the acquisition heavily fueled industry speculation that Chanel actively laid the groundwork for a dedicated menswear division.
Schiaparelli FW27 Haute Couture Rejects Formulas for "The Call of the Void"
Creative Director Daniel Roseberry explored the unknown for Schiaparelli’s Fall/Winter 2027 Haute Couture showcase, reimagining traditional luxury textiles for an exercise in experimentation, titled “THE CALL OF THE VOID.” Instead of standard silks and wools, Roseberry sculpted surrealist silhouettes using baked paint pools, silicone, and kinetic latex tentacles. Standouts featured floral motifs constructed from stretched hosiery and garments encrusted with real fish scales. The show also drew attention through its star-studded attendance, including Bad Bunny, sporting a custom Schiaparelli Haute Couture suit.
Fairy Tale or Everyday Adventure? The Chanel "Gaby and the Beanstalk" Collection Rewrites Haute Couture
For his sophomore Haute Couture show, Chanel’s Matthieu Blazy delivered "Gaby and the Beanstalk," a fusion of the label’s classic tailoring and whimsical folklore. The FW26 collection subverted classic literary themes into wearable, movement-friendly garments. Blazy opened the show with a bespoke suit woven from custom guipure lace designed to mimic magic beans. Other narrative motifs woven throughout the entire lineup, manifesting as creeping vines on footwear, minaudières shaped like resting bears, and buttons that transitioned from ducklings into swans. Beneath the fanstastical exterior, the garments boasted slashed fabrics and hidden interior pockets, perfectly balancing fantastical storytelling with real-world utility.
Nike Atelier Taps Team France's Désiré Doué For a Limited-Edition Sneaker
French football standout and World Cup competitor Désiré Doué partnered with Nike Atelier to drop a sleek, limited-edition lifestyle sneaker. The collaborative silhouette successfully bridged pitch performance with everyday wear, borrowing its black leather upper design from the legendary 1998 Nike Mercurial boot. Beneath the retro-football exterior sat a modern Pegasus-style midsole equipped with vibrant blue, visible Air cushioning. A foldover tongue subtly debossed with “NIKE ATELIER” completed the refined aesthetic. Positioned as a celebration of off-field athlete culture, the stealthy sneaker officially launched for exclusive in-store pre-order at Dover Street Market Paris before its wider summer rollout.
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